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MITER SAW (A) | MITER SAW (HD)
ANGLE GRINDER (A) | ANGLE GRINDER (HD)
DRILL/DRIVER COMBO (A) | DRILL/DRIVER COMBO (HD)
PALM SANDER (A) | PALM SANDER (HD)
FLAT BLACK SPRAY PAINT (A) | FLAT BLACK SPRAY PAINT (HD)
WOOD GLUE (A) | WOOD GLUE (HD)
FLAP DISKS (A) | FLAP DISKS (HD)
WOOD OF CHOICE
1" X 1" SQUARE METAL TUBING
First, I cut all the metal pieces to length using an angle grinder with a cut-off wheel.
In order to weld everything together and be consistant, I cut a simple template out of plywood. I cut the corners off in order to weld the inside corners of the metal legs.
When welding, you want to have a groove for the weld pool to sit in. So I put a flap disk on my angle grinder and put a chamfer on the ends.
With all the metal pieces ready to go, I began tack welding the joints together, lining everything up with the template I made earlier. These three pieces would make up one leg assembly.
Next I ground all the welds smooth with an angle grinder and flap disk.
Before joining two leg assemblies together, I patched up the ends with some scrap metal, welded it on, and then ground everything smooth.
Then, with two horizontal pieces, I joined the two leg assemblies together.
I needed a way to connect the wooden top to the metal base, so I took two washers and welded them together. Then with the metal base upside down, I welded them flush with what will be the top on the metal base.
I wiped the metal bases down with some laquer thinner, and applied 3 coats of flat black spray paint.
With the metal bases done, I moved onto the wooden tops.
I began by cutting some pieces of maple to size and then glueing them up.
Once the glue dried, I took the tops over to the bases and traced along the underside to get an exact match. Then I took them over to the miter saw and cut along these lines.
With the tops cut to final size, I began sanding them using 220 grit sand paper.
Then I applied 3 coats of satin wipe-on poly, sanding lightly between each coat.
Once the finish was dry, I attached them to the metal bases using wood screws through the washers on the underside.
At this point I had a perfectly functional end table, but I wanted to add one more thing to it - completely wireless charging!
On the underside of the table, I traced out where the charger would sit, and then routed out a pocket using my trim router. I left about 1/8" of material on the top of the table top.
Next, I needed a cover plate to secure the charger in the table, so I measured and cut a piece to size using some left over maple.
With the cover plate cut to size, I placed it over the hole and traced it with a pensil. Then I used a router and chisel so remove material until the cover plate sat flush with the underside of the table top.
If you watched the build video, you'll know that the magnets didn't work in holding the cover plate. Instead, I cut a piece of metal to size and used that as a way to hold the cover plate in place. I put one screw in it so when I need to recharge the wireless charger, I can just swivel it out of the way.
And with that, the second end table was complete! This is great for when I'm working on my laptop and need to charge my phone without finding an outlet, or simply while I'm watching tv!
If you want to make an end table with wireless charging like this, check out the set of PDF plans below or at the top of this page!